The magic of mold

To some people, mold may have a negative connotation, but to Blue cheesemakers like ourselves, it’s a beautiful thing.  Read on to learn more about the science behind this key ingredient used in the making of Blue cheese.

We’ve often said Blue cheesemaking is both an art and a science.  To help us better understand the science part, we caught up with QA Manager Scott Pucko and QA Lead Nick Williamette to walk us through how Penicillium Roqueforti, the type of mold used to make Blue cheese, works with oxygen and the environment to create the characteristic blue-green veins that run through the cheese and its sharp, tangy, piquant flavor.

But before we dig into the science, Scott instead starts with a history lesson.  “Blue cheese has a rich history dating back to France, particularly in the caves of Roquefort,” explains Scott.  “According to legend, a young shepherd discovered the mold by accident. He left his lunch of bread and cheese in a cave, only to return later to find his cheese covered in blue mold. This discovery led to the creation of Roquefort cheese, one of the earliest known Blue cheeses, which has been produced in the region for centuries.”

That’s where Penicillium Roqueforti gets its name and why we use this type of mold in our production.  The mold itself is added directly to the milk, but in order to thrive, it needs oxygen.  “After the cheese is formed, stainless steel rods pierce the inside of the cheese, creating air tunnels to allow oxygen in,” says Nick.  (That’s why you’ll see a uniform pattern of poked holes in a wheel or wedge.) “This oxygen exposure enables the spores to germinate and creates blue veining,” adds Scott.

Because mold is a living organism, it requires specific conditions to thrive.  It just so happens our sandstone caves provide the ideal environment.  Chilly, humid and airy, the location is a rare find, and it happens to share its latitude (44 °North) with Roquefort, France.  Specifically chosen for cheesemaking back in 1936, cheesemakers have cultivated these conditions for decades to create specific flavor profiles and textures unique to Caves of Faribault. 

So what does mold do in these conditions?  “It acts as a catalyst in the cheese-aging process, breaking down complex compounds like fats and proteins into simpler components,” explains Scott.  “This breakdown releases fatty acids and ammonia, which create the bold flavors, pungent smell, and the slightly crumbly texture of Blue cheese.”  Simply put, without mold, the cheese wouldn’t have its signature veins or taste.

During a process which can take anywhere from 2 to 6 months, the mold works its magic to create delicious results.  “During this time, the cheese is carefully monitored by our cheesemakers to ensure the best quality product for our customers,” says Nick.

So the next time you smell the unmistakable aroma of Blue cheese and savor its uniquely pungent flavor, you can acknowledge the microscope mold spores that made it all possible!